Now the next one is slightly more spectacular.
Again, it's about perspective and seeing things differently.
And something that conventionally is a rather drab polo-neck
can be turned on its side,
sliced across from the shoulder seam to about halfway across the body
and then this line here
wants to be as straight as possible
so you would encapsulate the top of the sleeve in it.
And then we cut along here
and then without even an inch of sewing
we have a little side-draping top,
an off-the-shoulder number.
It's really easy to do with anything from your wardrobe.
Now if you don't really show your midriff
or this isn't enough of a winter garment for you,
you can always combine it with another one.
Just to recap, the neckline,
so you have to imagine the polo neck as the sleeve…
the neckline, you don't need much of a shoulder element here
because you've got the sleeve
so you could base it around the width of a shoulder seam
on an existing garment.
And this side you want to cut it to drape, but cut…
you're reserved in your cutting because you can always cut away more to fit you.
You really need to base it around you.
And this bottom section here
can be based around the width of a top
but do encapsulate the sleeve in that section
because if you cut in a similar way to the top then it will be very lop-sided.
So, I'm going to combine this with another jumper.
So I'm going to slice across the other jumper.
You might want to measure
but I've been doing this for quite a long time
so I do an awful lot by sight.
Now you can see the bottom of this jumper
is slightly wider
so I'm going to take this jumper in along one side.
I'm just going to mirror the seam that's already there
and go straight to the bottom.
I'm going to slice this, overlock it,
and then I'm going to attach it to the other jumper.
Again, it's always best to use…
if you're sewing a purple garment,
purple threads, but for speed and ease,
because I'm going to do a couple of designs for you,
I'm just to going to stick to good-old black.
I turn it back through the right way,
position it, so its seam to either side of the cut
and then I'm going to come inside it
and grab that seam on the inside to this seam here.
So you've got the two right sides together
and seams to seams.
And I'm just going to quickly overlock that round
and turn it back through.
When you're overlocking,
whichever fabrics are on the top always stretches more.
And with every different wool,
with the size of the knit,
the elasticity in it tends to vary so you have to find your way.
There we go.
And now you can see it's starting to take shape.
It's almost like a dress.
If you want to trim the neck
that can be done quite easily using another section of the jumper
and just folding it over.
Right, so I've just trimmed whatever's available left from the jumper.
Just trim it roughly to the size of this,
if anything, a centimetre or so smaller.
Now we need this to be
a circle to go around the neck
so I'll overlock the two open edges together.
Now if you fold that over
you have a finished edge
to overlock to the garment.
You might want to just pin in place
because this is tricky because we are dealing with smaller bits of fabric.
Again, the basis of this design
is just seeing the raw materials differently,
seeing a polo-neck on its side as the top of a more substantial,
interesting, asymmetrical garment.
It can even be lengthened into a dress.
Now I'm just going to overlock that round again.
And because I've cut the purple piece of fabric, the trim, slightly smaller,
I’m going to do that piece on top
so it can stretch onto the raw edge that we are binding.
But raw edges are good and if you did this…
if you executed this design from a sweatshirt,
you wouldn't need to bind anything because sweatshirts don't fray.
I'm mean knitwear doesn't really fray,
it more sort of ladders.
You probably need to press that down a little bit.
But…
Voila!
Certainly nicer than most…the average Christmas jumper and
if you're legs-eleven, you could wear it as a dress.
I'm not.